Synagogue of Tránsito

You are facing one of the great treasures of the ancient Jewish quarter of Toledo: the Synagogue of Tránsito. Before entering, take a look at its exterior. It is sober, almost austere. Nothing seems to announce what awaits you on the other side of these walls. Now come inside and let your eyes get used to the space. Look around you. The synagogue was built between 1355 and 1357 on behalf of Samuel ha-Leví Abulafia, a powerful member of the Jewish community of Toledo and treasurer of King Peter I of Castile. Samuel ha-Leví lived next to the synagogue, on the site now occupied by the El Greco Museum, and both buildings were connected. His house must have been a real palace, spread over a large property that descended towards the Tagus River. But now he looks up at the walls. After the simplicity of the exterior, the contrast is extraordinary. The walls are covered in delicate Mudejar plasterwork. Among the vegetal and geometric decoration there are inscriptions in Hebrew and Arabic, psalms, praises to God and texts dedicated to King Peter I and Samuel ha-Leví himself. And look at something that perhaps you didn't expect to find inside a synagogue: the coat of arms of Castilla y León. His presence tells us a lot about the position that Samuel ha-Leví had achieved in the Christian court. This building was a place of prayer, but it also spoke of power, protection and prestige. Now i…

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